Button Dilemma and Buying OnlineJune 5, 2025 So you sewists all know what this is like. I have a vision that's been haunting me and won't let go.
I really love this look. What I'm looking for is a summertime look for this:
Only in a lighter color, but with the same lines. This has been a go-to look for me this winter, and there's no reason I can't have the same thing in a lighter color.
But when I got some fabric (which is another story below) online, I found
myself in a dilemma: my choice of buttons is NOT a quiet quality look. These buttons scream couture and not softly.
So, do I go with what I really like (not quite the quality) and use a boring plastic-y-looking horn button, or do I go with some fabulous buttons I just purchased at Mood in Houston?
Here I am in my newsletters preaching quiet quality and how wonderful it is, and
then turn around and choose buttons that blast "couture made" with a megaphone. But to be honest, the artist in me can't stand it. I have to put those couture buttons on.
BTW, these aren't expensive, and they aren't even real horn. They are made to look that way, hence the reasonable price. But dang, the color match is right on, so it looks like I purchased the buttons with the jacket fabric, and that they were literally designed and made to go together.
You can see in the above photo, and below that I've already pad stitched the lapel and working on the collar.
This is a marvelous pattern that I've done many times for me but also in classes where my professional students love to look tailored and sharp, but because it's made for a ponte or stable knit (neoprene, ponte di roma, or doubleknit), when you sit in this
jacket, it gives, which means you don't have that tight cinched-in feeling.
But I've lengthened it to just above the knee. How did I come up with that length? By using the Proportion Tool (I did that in the last newsletter, where you can download it and see how to use it on your proportions at home).
Here it is so you can see how these proportions work. I'm a short person, so I have to be very careful of my proportions because what may work for someone taller is progressively shorter for me, so that my "sweet spot" is very short.
This is a particularly excellent pattern, and if you don't have it, I highly recommend it. It's older, so you'll notice that the markings on the pattern are from an older model, meaning that there are many more markings than you're used to seeing on a
pattern.
It also includes several different ways to finish the edges. One of the standard ways to finish ponte and double knit garments in the 70s was to using a binding, like a grosgrain or Petersham ribbon, or a cut binding that encased the edge. This offered the chance to do some top stitching that wouldn't show - sititch in the ditch. This help the edge be a bit more crisp.
One of the disadvantages of using doubleknit or ponte is that it
doesn't press crisply like a wool, cotton or linen. So some sort of edge stitching is really recommending. There are several that work with this sort of jacket.
- Binding was the traditional way to offer a means to do top stitching that wouldn't show, and yet make the edge flatter. You apply the binding, then I would slip stitch the other side, but on the right side, stitch in the ditch, so the seam wouldn't show, but would show on the reverse or underside.
- A grosgrain or Petersham ribbon is also an excellent choice. You apply the ribbon to the turned
edges on the underside of the jacket, but top stitch on the ribbon's top side. Then press the ribbon to the front and top stitch again. You will want to make sure that the fabric has a very crisp turn so that none of the underside shows on the front. This can be a little tricky when mitering corners, but it gives an extremely polished and professional look.
- A traditional ¼" from the seam top stitch, to give a beautiful "welt" look on the edge. This is probably one
of the simplest and yet professional looks.
- Hand-pick-stitching. I use one of those Tiger Tapes, which has sticky on one side and is about ¼" wide, and has about 9 notches per inch. This hand-ticked look is very professional, tailored-looking. If you notice on a lot of jackets, they have this "dimple" on the edge about every ¼" or so, and it's the sign of a hand-tailored suit. No machine can really mimic this. There are some machines out there that try to do
this, but the effect is very poor: the stitch does not go through all the thicknesses of the stable knit and basically looks cheap and poorly executed. Click on the pic for more info.
Of all the techniques, this last one is my favorite and takes the most time, even
considering all the handwork in the pad stitching. Basically, this jacket uses pad stitching (and I use horsehair braid for the interfacing).
You can do this while watching (or listening) to TV, or a book online (one of my favorite things to do when doing homework). After this is finished, assembly is like riding on a rocket train - boom - it's done!!! Then the edge-stitch finishing, and you're ready to wear it. For something that looks like it takes a lot longer to make, this jacket becomes an integral part of your wardrobe. But I also had another consideration. I'm short, and as a result, I have to be very careful about finding the perfect space that matches my proportions. Here's an example of this:
I've marked the good-proportion areas on the tall model, and you can see in the pic on the left that those areas get shorter. They are a bit harder to define, and sometimes they seem to be disappearing. They don't, but you simply do not have a lot of
room when you are shorter than when you're a tall person. This is to give you heads up for shorter people, who have to be very careful of the correct porprotional areas.
But back to the button choice. I know that the instant I put these buttons on,
it will scream "custom-made," and although I love that look, I don't want it to be in-your-face. This is one of those exceptions.
So, how do we know when it is a good time to make an exception to our "art rules"? Like an old art teacher said to me, "You have to know the rules to break them!" This applies here. My rule of keeping my garments as quiet as possible is broken severely by these buttons. But the fact is that these buttons tone and are almost an
exact color match, so it's hard not to choose them. I tried to go with a blond pearl or another elegant button, but these matched too well.
I still do not like our custom-made, quiet-quality clothing to scream, "I'm custom-made, and you're not!" That defeats the purpose of the quiet part of quality, or the stealth part of wealth! The whole idea here is to project that aura of "I'm so welathy that I don't care if you know or not, and I don't like drawing attention
to myself by looking flashy or blingy." That's why you see music stars, movie stars and other folks who have newly acquired a lot of money, looking flashy and
Buying online is always fraught with problems. You can't feel the fabric. You can't feel the weight. You can't feel the texture. You can't get a good read on the color. You can't check out the drape or body of the fabric.
There's a lot going on that you can't do.
You are basically at the mercy of the fabric store. So buying at a reputable store is the first thing you should consider. Here's my short list for some good places I have traded in the past. This isn't a complete list, just the ones I have experience with.
- Vogue Fabrics Store - this is my number-one online store because of their bi-monthly
catalog. I have purchased items from the catalog that I never would have bought online because of the color, weight, texture, or just the feel of the fabric.
- Mood Fabrics - even when I don't get the catalog, I know I'm getting a quality fabric. Yes, sometimes the pricing can make you gulp, but you write the check once and wear it over and over and
over... That's REAL value, and it's something that makes you feel good every time you wear the garment.
These next stores are not in any particular order - Gorgeous Fabrics - a very well-edited selection of fabric with a video to accompany most fabrics, and a Pantone Color number. Again, I've bought strictly off that Pantone number and have
always been pleased.
- Emma One Sock - another site with beautifully edited fabrics. A lot of fabrics here, so there's a huge choice, and with Pantone colors to let you know exactly what color you're getting.
- MarcyTilton online - A
collection of fabulously eclectic fabrics edited by a very fine artistic eye. The Tilton sisters have a collection of great fabrics here.
- Mendel Goldberg Fabrics - In studying the history of the fabric district in NYC, the original district was south of Houston Street. After the shirt factory fire, it moved farther north; some of the old stores are still
south of Houston. By far, the best of that group is Mendel Goldberg. Alice is there today, looking after things, and has the most marvelous selection of the world's best fabrics. If you're in New York, you must make a stop here. If you're not, call Alice, and she is so entirely charming and pleasant, you will think you've discovered the fairy godmother of fabric, and you have! I have called her many times for clients' fabrics. If you're looking for something
special, or just want a high by looking at beautiful clothing, check out the store, and better than ice cream, check out the End Cuts!
- Sawyer Brook Fabrics - this is a new store for me, and I started with them cause they send out samples
bi-monthly. But I had an interesting experience. I ordered tan fabric to make the garment shown at the top of today's newsletter, but they sent something totally different. Not only that, but it had holes. They looked like bug holes, but the placement was off. Usually, bug holes will go several thicknesses and be stacked one on top of the other. These were scattered throughout the fabric, and they weren't in any sort of order. I actually loved the
fabric, so when I called them back and told them I had the wrong fabric with holes and didn't want the rust fabric I had originally ordered, I asked for the one they had sent by mistake, but without the holes. We talked back and forth, and they didn't have any more of what I wanted. So they asked if I wanted the rust fabric, and I said, no, just give me credit, and I'll spend it down the line.
Well, that wasn't the end of it. They called about a week later and
said they were sending me a sample of something they thought I would like. OMG - in the mail, there it was - exactly what I was looking for, for my summer version of the long jacket. I called them up immediately, and they sent it to me, and it was exactly what I was looking for. Apparently, they made a trip to New York or New Jersey (where much of the fabric district has moved), and found this just for me.
Now, I'm not a long-standing customer, so I was shocked by
their service and commented on how kind and thorough they were in making sure I was happy. This is just the sort of fabric store you're looking for. Obviously, they were embarrassed to have sent me the "holy" fabric, but they made up for it in spades.
One of the things I've learned in sewing for my clients is that if they have a
problem with a garment after it's gone out the door, but something comes up and there's an adjustment or some tweak, I stop everything, get right on the problem, fix it, and get right to them ASAP. What this does is it makes them even more satisfied customers than when they walked out the first time. It's almost like a megaphone attached to them as they run around town, telling everyone what a wonderful place it is to get your gowns restored, refitted, or created from scratch!
So I'm really sold on Sawyer Brook right now and look forward to every fabric sample collection.
Although you can't feel the fabric, touch it, or see the color, there are many advantages to buying online that you simply can't beat. Part of the reason I only shop at established stores is that sewing with an upscale fabric affects not only your garment but also your work. Sewing with fine fabric does make your work look so much better.
The selection and
diversity of fabrics is literally boundless. I have run across some of the most elegant fabrics I can't even describe. Fabrics that look plain and simple, but when you have them in your hand, and on your body, they flow and lay so gracefully, it makes your work look professional and makes you feel like a million bucks.
If you're at all concerned about a fabric, always request a sample. And I usually send a note on specifics - what I'm going to use it for, color,
and weight I'm looking for, and if you have a picture that helps that along, that's wonderful. These fine shops are most interested in making your shopping experience as helpful and easy as possible, a quick phone call or email, can help them make you as happy as possible. And that's what they really want in the end.
|
This is a sad day - the loss of a classic tradition. Armani held the line
to fashion style that ...
Tracking a fashion trend isn't all that hard after seeing a few of them.
Living from Mid-Century Modern through Twiggy...
It's worth the time to look at these styles, particularly today as
there is a group of that wants to look....
This is the way fashion used to be -- pretty, flattering and I can't wait to make some of...
NOTE: There are some folks who can't get my email, or it's sporadic, or something is hinky. I will always respond to any of you who send a private message, whether it's about the topic of the week or something else. If you don't get anything
from me, it's probably because the [email protected] email is blocked, and even a private message can't get through. In that case, I'm on Instagram often, and you can always PM me at @sewingartistry.
As a precaution,
please ensure I'm in your email Address Book and check your spam, junk, and trash folders. Some email clients get extra excited when they see emails coming into the Inbox that go to many other receivers. They automatically think it's trash or spam, and it never makes it to the Inbox. I must constantly check my spam and junk folders to ensure I'm getting the emails I subscribe to.
To view in browser along with past emails, click here. We respect your email privacy. |
Tracking a fashion trend isn't all that hard after seeing a few of them.
Living from Mid-Century Modern through Twiggy...
It's worth the time to look at these styles, particularly today as
there is a group of that wants to look....
This is the way fashion used to be -- pretty, flattering and I can't wait to make some of...
NOTE: There are some folks who can't get my email, or it's sporadic, or something is hinky. I will always respond to any of you who send a private message, whether it's about the topic of the week or something else. If you don't get anything
from me, it's probably because the [email protected] email is blocked, and even a private message can't get through. In that case, I'm on Instagram often, and you can always PM me at @sewingartistry.
As a precaution,
please ensure I'm in your email Address Book and check your spam, junk, and trash folders. Some email clients get extra excited when they see emails coming into the Inbox that go to many other receivers. They automatically think it's trash or spam, and it never makes it to the Inbox. I must constantly check my spam and junk folders to ensure I'm getting the emails I subscribe to.
To view in browser along with past emails, click here. We respect your email privacy. |
|
|
